Zitat des Tages über Surfen / Surfing:
With Crazy Horse, it's all one big, growing, smoldering sound, and I'm part of it. It's like gliding, or some sort of natural surfing.
I grew up on the beaches of Southern California surfing and sailing and I've always loved horses so it was part of my dream that I was able to fulfill to have horses.
Both the 'Gregor' series and 'The Hunger Games' are what I call lightning-bolt ideas. There was a moment where the idea came to me. With 'The Hunger Games,' the lightning bolt sort of hit at a moment when I was channel surfing between reality TV and the coverage of the Iraq war.
I have to remind the people who put down East Coast surfing that Kelly Slater is from Florida.
The surfing - the waves in Indonesia are amazing.
I'm excited to go surfing every time. I have fun in any kind of wave in the ocean.
I grew up surfing. My dad probably put me on a surfboard before I could walk.
When I think about dropping team sports and picking up surfing and also then geeking out radio control planes and gadgetry and all that stuff I love, that's what really now has led me in big part to GoPro.
I was a little nerdy, but I got along with everybody. I had fun at school - skateboarding, surfing, getting kicked out of class for making too much noise.
Before I started surfing, I don't even know if I would have dived into the water at night alone. It was still scary.
Surfing soothes me, it's always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I'm on a wave.
It looks easy, like surfing, but surfing is hard too.
Surfing is so much work. It's one of those things that I just love, but it's so hard.
I've tried body surfing. It's nice.
I have been surfing since I was six years old.
Maybe I was accepted to Harvard only because of my tennis skills, since I definitively had no great academic achievements. I was 17 and only thought about surfing and playing tennis. I had almost never left Rio de Janeiro and had never been to the United States.
Now I'm doing more snowboarding but I have to get back into surfing again.
The place where I grew up is the center of surfing. Everyone who grows up on the North Shore surfs, and from October to March, you have the best waves in the world within a 5- to 7-mile stretch. I grew up in the center of these incredible sunsets and all these incredible waves. And then we have the Triple Crown of Surfing.
If I leave my computer, I'm probably not going to get back for hours. If I take a few minutes to answer questions and go web surfing, then guilt kicks in and I get back to work.
I grew up in the Midwest, quite far from any ocean or any beach, a million miles. I think for kids who grew up where I did, the idea of California, surfing and beach life was so exotic and glamorous.
When you have two busy kids running around the house, returning e-mails is a task, let alone surfing the web.
For me, surfing is as close a connection I can have with Mother Nature. To surf, you're riding a pulse of energy from Mother Nature. And it's strong. It's real. It's there. And you're dancing with that. You're connecting with that. You're might be the only person in the history of the universe that connects with that particular pulse of energy.
I kind of quit surfing when I got out of high school, but then a few years ago I started to take it up again. I'm not an expert by any means, but it's so wonderful to get out in the ocean and get a different perspective on things.
I sometimes struggle, because my job is like the antithesis of what surfing is all about. Surfing's simple. It's real.
Even though I grew up surfing and sailing in Southern California, I was born horse crazy.
Yeah, my dream would be to work for 6 months and then have 6 months to play, just snowboarding, surfing, and going to cool places to listen and be alone and kinda chill out.
There was one thing I loved a little bit more than surfing - and that was acting.
I had plenty of invites and chances to party when I just started on tour, but I knew partying would prevent me from achieving my surfing potential.
Surfing is not my strong point. And... I don't really have a tan. I go to the tanning place, the one that sprays you with color.
Surprisingly, I am great at kiteboarding, but I'm not great at surfing.
I've never been to college, and I think about that. But I kept putting it off, and I am also thinking about having a child, and that's really important. Also, I want to do a lot of traveling and surfing - two of my hobbies.
I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.
And where I grew up in Australia, surfing was a part of culture.
For some reason surfing... I'm not scared of the ocean so the risk doesn't seem as great to me.
You never came home for lunch: you just stayed doing, playing, having fun, surfing, running round.
In our fast-forward culture, we have lost the art of eating well. Food is often little more than fuel to pour down the hatch while doing other stuff - surfing the Web, driving, walking along the street. Dining al desko is now the norm in many workplaces. All of this speed takes a toll. Obesity, eating disorders and poor nutrition are rife.