Zitat des Tages von Kelly Slater:
Fatherhood isn't always a planned thing, but when it happens you just do it. It's very natural and in that sense it's not really difficult.
Most of what Hawaii has to offer is no secret. Pipeline is probably the most famous wave in the world.
It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.
Maintaining marriage seems to be tougher than fatherhood: apparently it's the most difficult thing in the world.
My belief is that 'heaven' and 'hell' are metaphorical terms for what you make of your life. In any instant, you have the ability to make your life total pleasure or total hell.
I still feel like my best surfing is ahead of me.
I surf more now for other people than myself. I feel a lot of support from people wanting me to do well, and I feed off that. I can send a positive message to people from what I do.
